ALDO CONTERNO Barolo Bussia

WA: 91

The Poderi Aldo Conterno 2017 Barolo Bussia Cicala reveals a deep garnet color with some dark copper. Like the other 2017 wines from this celebrated producer, I can't help but suspect that these areas of Bussia suffered from the heat and some of the other weather challenges associated with this growing season. A clear note of overt ripeness comes across as dried strawberry or sweet crème de cassis. The finish is similarly weighed down by the fruit weight and oak tannins.

WS: 93

A chameleonlike red, with hallmark aromas and flavors of tomato sauce, cherry, macerated plum, iron and wet hay. The ripe fruit gets sweeter in this red as it builds to the vice grip of tannins on the finish, with the sweet fruit returning in the end. Best from 2025 through 2042. 1,500 cases made, 300 cases imported.

VM: 92

The 2019 Barolo Bussia is redolent of crushed red berry fruit, cedar, mint, spice, sweet pipe tobacco and orange peel. Firm and sinewy, with veins of insistent supporting tannin, the 2019 is a terrific example of the vintage and this bottling. Impressive. And gorgeous. Give it a few years to soften.

WS: 95

Rich and generous, this red delivers cherry, raspberry, rose and sweet spice aromas and flavors. Harmonious and charming, with bright acidity and beautifully integrated tannins, this firms up on the long, vanilla-tinged finish. Best from 2026 through 2045. 1,295 cases made, 680 cases imported.