WA: 94
While past vintages of Altagracia included some purchased fruit, the 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon Altagracia is all estate fruit selected from certain blocks—mostly the more volcanic parcels and young vines. A blend of 89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Petit Verdot and 5% Cabernet Franc, it's redolent of crushed stone and a mix of red and black cherries, while the medium to full-bodied palate is supple and creamy, then comes to a rather tannic, compact, mocha-tinged finish. Give it a couple of years in the cellar.
Part of François Pinault's Artemis Domaines since 2013 when it was purchased from Bart and Daphne Araujo, the onsite team is led by General Manager Antoine Donnedieu de Vabres and Technical Director Hélène Mingot, both of whom have been at the property since 2013. In overall philosophy, not that much has changed since the change in ownership. The grapes are still grown biodynamically, and the goal is still to allow the site to express itself, largely through the lens of Cabernet Sauvignon.
This was my first official visit to this famed site in Calistoga, although I'll confess to having cruised past the legendary vineyard on a couple of previous occasions (I was a member of the Araujo Estate mailing list for the 1994 to 1998 vintages). For those unfamiliar with the location, it sits on Pickett Road on the eastern side of the AVA, adjoining the neighboring Alfred Frediani Ranch, which Artemis acquired early in 2023 for a reported $18.5 million. That property added just under 28 acres of vines to the existing 38 acres at Eisele. Extensive redevelopment is planned to bring the new acreage up to Eisele standards, although the head-trained Cabernet Sauvignon planted in 1983 has been kept—it was previously being purchased for use in Altagracia.
The Cabernet Sauvignon is destemmed—an optical sorter has been in place since 2020—and then goes into vats as whole berries for two or three days of pre-fermentation maceration. Fermentation is long and slow, using indigenous yeasts and maintaining temperatures below 82 degrees Fahrenheit until the end, when vats may reach 84 to 86 degrees Fahrenheit. Top lots will spend a total of 24 to 30 days on skins. Malolactic fermentation takes place in tank, and then the wines are drained to barrel, after which the lots are generally not racked again until blending and bottling.
Followers of the property will know that there is a small amount of Syrah also in the ground, sufficient to make 250 to 300 cases annually. "We cannot make the best Syrah on the planet," said Donnedieu. "But the goal is to make something pleasurable and easy to drink." Most years, it's considerably better than that.
The Sauvignon Blanc is about 75% Musqué clone and matures in a diverse mix of stainless steel, concrete and new/used French oak. It's not as big and rich as some Napa Valley Sauvignons, showing more Gallic restraint than most. "If we wait for the aromas on the vine," said Mingot, "we're too late."
Having now visited two of Artemis's properties—I previously reported on Château Grillet when I was reviewing Rhône wines—I feel confident that these historic properties are in capable hands, committed to responsible custodianship of the land and the production of high-quality wines. While most of the sales are direct-to-consumer through the mailing list, some bottles do make it into distribution and may be found at local Napa restaurants as well.
Wine Spectator: 93
A dark, smoldering style, with currant and fig paste flavors liberally laced with alder, walnut husk, loam and bittersweet cocoa, all while keeping a sense of polish along the edges. Best from 2026 through 2038. 1,470 cases made.
