KUMEU RIVER Estate Chardonnay

WA: 93

The 2022 Estate Chardonnay is nutty and svelte, with white peach, pastry, apricot kernel, brine and even a hint of malt biscuit through the finish. The wine has breadth and girth to it; it's not at all compact, but it's tight in texture. So, all things being equal, it's an exciting Chardonnay. This is from six different sites in the Kumeu area, with wine aging on lees in 20% new oak (just about all François Frères) for approximately 11 months. Everything goes 100% malolactic fermentation, wild primary ferment, and malolactic fermentation is a mixture of inoculation and wild. From 2024, they will not be inoculating malolactic fermentation, as "the wild yeasts seem to be the most reliable," explains Michael Brajkovich. Lovely acid. 13% alcohol, sealed under screw cap.

VM: 91

The 2022 Chardonnay Estate is calm, its shoulders are down and its almost succulent in its personality as it makes it debut in your mouth. The acidity is gentle, particularly when compared with the nervosity of 2021. There's a fine textural character that could well be tannin that keeps this giving and leaves you licking your lips. Flavors of nectarine, clove and vanilla-like oak notes make for a rather festive finish (20% new oak). The nectarine-infused length persists making this one that'll slip down easily over the next 3-5 years at the very least.

WS: 92

There's a wonderful sense of restraint to the complex pear, lemon and white peach flavors, with hints of beeswax, lemon blossoms and ripe, salted melon. Drink now. 7,500 cases made, 952 cases imported.

WA: (90-92)

The 2024 Estate Chardonnay is floral and tightly coiled, with a scratched lime backbone. It's not as complex as the Ray's Road tasted alongside, yet it's utterly composed and restrained. It is mineral and very good indeed. This was tasted as a tank sample prior to filtration and bottling.

VM: 92

Is the 2024 Chardonnay Estate the best ever here? Quite possibly. It displays excellent concentration, especially considering this is "just" the estate wine. The 2024 is absolutely banging with intensity, tension and punch. There's a lot going on for your money. Expect a lightly infused brightness with scintillating citrus and integrated nutty layers and complexity. Plenty to unravel.

WS: 91

Stylish, with a firm backbone of brioche to the lemon curd, orange zest and white peach flavors. Hints of cardamom and lemon verbena add complexity. Offers floral details of lemon blossoms on the finish. Drink now. 896 cases imported.