KUMEU RIVER Mate's Vineyard Chardonnay

VM: 98

Winemaker Michael Brajkovich, MW, does it again with the 2024 Chardonnay Maté's Vineyard. It is super young and not ready for the grand reveal, but you can’t mistake class, no matter its age. Aromatically, the 2024 is hardly expressive, but this is Chardonnay, so calm your jets—beeswax and honeydew melon for now. The palate is compact and firm, yet it holds a wealth of density at its core. The vintage was a small crop due to poor flowering, so there’s a whole lot of intensity to this. In some years, Hunting Hill challenges Maté’s for top spot, but this year, Maté’s steps up the seriousness level. It leaves you saying, “Now we’re talking.” This is not a wine about fruit, it’s about power and sapidity, grip and karate kicks. It has everything: silken texture and succulence, but it’s nicely pared back. Supremely balanced.

WS: 93

There’s wonderful tension from the crisp acidity brewing underneath this white’s fresh flavors of lemon sorbet, crunchy star fruit and Asian pear, with notes of lemon balm and freshly grated ginger, plus a thread of saline and a touch of green tea. Drink now. 100 cases imported.