ROAGNA Pira Barolo

WS: 96

This red is like a laser, yet there’s also a sappiness to its texture midpalate, with cherry, cranberry, rose hip, menthol and mineral flavors. Notable for its harmony, complexity and length, with an aftertaste that just keeps coming. Best from 2029 through 2047. 856 cases made, 180 cases imported.  –BS

VM: 95

The 2020 Barolo Pira is a powerful, tightly wound young Barolo. Dried herbs, incense, licorice, tobacco and crushed autumn leaves add layers of nuance. This starts open with a bit of coaxing, suggesting a few years in bottle or a good bit air will do the trick. The tannins are insistent, but also polished.