TENUTA SAN GUIDO Sassicaia

VM: 96

The 2008 Sassicaia is a rich, deep wine imbued with notable class in its black cherries, plums, grilled herbs, minerals and smoke. The 2008 is a decidedly buttoned-up, firm Sassicaia that is currently holding back much of its potential, unlike the 2006 and 2007, both of which were far more obvious wines. Readers who can afford to wait will be treated to a sublime wine once this settles down in bottle. Muscular, firm tannins frame the exquisite finish in this dark, implosive Sassicaia. The 2008 Sassicaia is 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Cabernet Franc. The wine spent 24 months in French oak barrels.

WS: 94

Refined and elegant, this is right in step with the reserve of the vintage. Blackberry, plum, cassis and mineral flavors play out with subtle oak spice notes on the finish, where this flexes some muscle. Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2014 through 2025. 9,000 cases imported.

VM: 90

The 2014 Sassicaia is polished and expressive for the year. But it is also quite a bit darker and more concentrated than when it was a young wine. That search for a level of depth in aging that the vintage did not provide on its own also concentrated the tannins, which are a bit out of balance for the structure of the wine. It will be interesting to see if the 2014 gains aromatic expressiveness and layers. Today the wine is at once light in body and also tannic.

WS: 92

Distinctly Old World in style, this red boasts savory, cedar and mineral accents to the core of black currant and macerated cherry fruit. Elegant and persistent, with a lingering aftertaste of fruit, spice and mineral. Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2019 through 2028. 17,200 cases made, 4,000 cases imported.

WA: 100

This is a benchmark vintage, offering special appeal thanks to its profound sharpness and precision. The Tenuta San Guido 2021 Bolgheri Sassicaia remains fixed and immobile, like a time capsule of the vintage itself. One member of the winery team with whom I tasted used the word “granitic,” referring to its frozen, statue-like posture, a description I found especially fitting for the wine’s character. Whereas the 2016 vintage shows iron-like minerality, the 2021 reveals brilliant limestone clarity followed by dark currant, dried mint and blood orange. Cabernet Franc is reduced to 12% in this blend alongside Cabernet Sauvignon. The mouthfeel is complete and profound, defined by freshness and firm texture, and even when revisited nearly an hour later, this stone statue of a wine did not budge. This is a bottle clearly built for long cellar aging.

VM: 98+

The 2021 Sassicaia is one of the best young Sassicaias I can remember tasting, certainly on par with anything in recent memory. The preference here is picking on the earlier side relative to many neighboring properties, which is one of the reasons Sassicaia is always a wine of refinement more than opulence. At the same time, Sassicaia can be light. Not in 2021. All the elements came together during a long growing season to produce a rich, deep wine that marries textural intensity with classicism. Dark cherry/plum fruit, spice, new leather, menthol, licorice and spice all race across the palate. Time in the glass brings out the wine's textural intensity and sheer power. The 2021 is one of the most concentrated Sassicaias on record. That allowed for long macerations, as long as 20 days for some Cabernets. Aging was 25 months in French oak barrels (95% French, 5% a mix of Hungarian and Slavonian wood), 40% new, 40% once-used barrels and 20% in twice-used barrels. One of the recent developments here is some bâtonnage in aging, which is used to build texture. That approach worked well in 2021. In a word: magnificent.

WS: 98

Rich yet elegant, laced with black cherry, blackberry, cedar, mineral and oak spice aromas and flavors, this resonant red builds to a long, detailed aftertaste. Shows great balance, with vibrant acidity and refined tannins, yet this should benefit from a few more years of aging. Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2026 through 2045. 23,750 cases made, 5,250 cases imported.

WA: 96+

Rich yet elegant, laced with black cherry, blackberry, cedar, mineral and oak spice aromas and flavors, this resonant red builds to a long, detailed aftertaste. Shows great balance, with vibrant acidity and refined tannins, yet this should benefit from a few more years of aging. Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2026 through 2045. 23,750 cases made, 5,250 cases imported.

VM: 94+

The 2022 Sassicaia is a very pretty, expressive wine. There’s a bit more Cabernet Sauvignon (and less Franc) in this year’s blend, and that really comes through in the wine’s flavor profile and slightly bruising tannins. Dark cherry, plum, leather, licorice, graphite and incense give the 2022 striking aromatic presence to match its rather brooding personality. There’s a bit of tension in the tannins that needs time to resolve. Yields were down about 20% because of intensely cold weather in spring, variable conditions during flowering and set, and then searing heat and drought throughout the summer.

WS: 95

A bit shy aromatically, this concentrated red exhibits flavors of black currant, black cherry, blackberry, tobacco and sweet spices that show a hint of eucalyptus, with assertive tannins that take hold as this evolves through the finish. Although closed and compact at this stage, this is balanced, fresh and long overall. Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2028 through 2045. 5,250 cases imported.